Tea was introduced to Japan from China in the 9th century by two Buddhist monks, Kūkai and Saichō. However, it wasn’t until 1191 that tea truly began to flourish, and tea cultivation took root. This shift was largely due to another Buddhist monk, Myōan Eisai, who had traveled to China, where he encountered Zen Buddhism and learned about tea drinking. At a time when Japan was plagued by a series of natural disasters—fires, tornadoes, and typhoons had devastated Kyoto—along with famine, pestilence, and political turmoil, Eisai believed that Zen teachings could help restore the country, while tea’s medicinal properties could aid in healing.
Eisai sent tea seeds to Kōzanji Temple in Kyoto, as well as planted some in Senkoji Temple in Hirado, Nagasaki, and Tendaijin in the Seburi Mountains of Saga. The abbot of Kōzanji not only planted the seeds at the temple but also in the nearby Uji region, playing a key role in the spread of both tea cultivation and the practice of tea drinking across Japan.
Eisai also wrote a treatise on the health benefits of tea, drawing on traditional Chinese medicine. He believed that bitter foods were restorative for the heart. One quote that particularly made me smile was: “I wonder why the Japanese do not care for bitter things. In the great country of China they drink tea, as a result of which there is no heart trouble and people live long lives. Our country is full of sickly-looking, skinny people, and this is simply because we do not drink tea. Whenever one is in poor spirits, one should drink tea. This will put the heart in good order and dispel all illness.”
In 1202, Eisai founded Kennin-ji, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. Located in the heart of Gion, one of Kyoto’s most picturesque and historic districts, Kennin-ji is surprisingly less crowded with tourists compared to other places in the area. As a temple of the Rinzai Zen tradition, Kennin-ji is home to beautiful Zen gardens and art. It showcases an important calligraphic work by Sengai Gibon, the abbot of Japan’s oldest Zen temple, which features a circle, a triangle, and a square. The main hall is renowned for its stunning ceiling installation: a painting of twin dragons by Koizumi Junsaku, created using ink on paper. Other significant cultural treasures include sliding door paintings by Kaiho Yusho (from the 1600s), such as the famous Cloud Dragon and The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove.
For those with a specific interest in tea, Kennin-ji is a must-see, particularly for its beautiful chashitsu—a traditional tea room. Known as Toyo-bo, it is named after a disciple of the famous tea master Sen no Rikyū and is a two-mat tea room. You can admire it from the temple garden.
As you explore the temple grounds, you’ll notice low hedges marking boundaries or ridges. Many of these are actually… tea plants! When I last visited, they were in full bloom, creating a stunning sight. If you’re planning a trip to Kyoto, make sure Kennin-ji is on your “tea pilgrimage” list—it’s a truly special spot for tea lovers 😉
